Sunday 26th and Monday 27th August 2018 in Hungerford.
Sunday was forecast to rain heavily all day and it did not disappoint! So, we stayed put all day. David had left early in the morning, despite the rain, as he wanted to push on to Hungerford that night and then Newbury tomorrow.
On Monday morning, we set out to explore Great Bedwyn, which has some curiosities on offer, notably the quite extraordinary village shop and post office, adorned with the work of various stonemasons.
The end wall is adorned with this huge Wedgwood style representation of the Last Supper.
The Disciples may have partaken of bread but the Hoods could not as there is no bakery delivery on a Monday! There are dozens of stone epitaphs hanging on the walls as well as one huge piece of slate that appears to have been the stonemason's invoice. The detail is hilarious!
We particulary liked "Correcting the Ten Commandments" for 110 shillings and "Renewing Heaven". What a bargain!!!
When we were last here six years ago, we checked out the menu of the village pub, only to find that it was closed for refurbishment. It has now closed altogether and been converted to offices; it is the handsome grey building on the right. Sadly, we see this all too often on our travels.
Opposite our mooring, we saw a notice for the "Wooden Treehouse Company Limited" attached to a lovely looking tree house.
There was also a winding stairway that led up to a platform in the next tree, with a lovely circular seating area; a perfect place for a glass of wine or two on a sunny evening.
We set off mid-morning and were once more saddened by the obvious lack of C&RT maintenance hereabouts. Not just badly leaking gates but filthy dirty balance beams and winding gear, which hadn't been greased in an age.
This poor lockside cottage should be a picture but it stood abandonned for some years and it shows. "At least someone is living in it now," said a passing local in a resigned way. We can't help feeling that with a little TLC, it should be capable of contributing significantly to the C&RT coffers - but they seem more interested in spending money on an ugly meaningless new logo rather than on maintenance or their property portfolio. Sad.
By comparison, nearby Marsh Lock is pristine, with sparkling new paintwork - not surprising as it is unique, having a swing bridge across the middle of the lock. It is a great draw for locals and passers by. For boaters, it adds a new dimension that has to be considered when deciding what to do first!
A mooring presented itself alongside the church just before Hungerford so we tied up there.
We walked the short distance to the High Street for a mandatory visit to the "Tutti Pole Tea Shoppe". It is not just a very well known tea shop but also the pivotal point for an unusual (and rather bizarre) annual ceremony.
Long before the existence of policemen, two local individuals were elected each year as "Tithingmen". Their job for the year was to keep order, and they were each given a large stick or pole to enforce their power. At the end of each year, the outgoing pair decorated their poles with flowers and went around the town and grateful residents would give them a penny or two in thanks for their work. If the residents did not have any money, the tradition was that the ladies gave the men a kiss. Later, the Tithingmen took to giving an orange in return for a kiss (something to do with supporting the protestant Dutch).
The "Tutti Poles" are displayed in the window of the tea shop.
Now, each year just after Easter, two worthies are elected to carry the "Tutti Poles" and a procession winds its way around the town exchanging oranges for kisses - although in 2013 one of the "Tithingmen" was a lady, so the kisses must have been the other way around!
M could not resist the "Special of the Day" - a Fish Finger sandwich! A first for her, and jolly good too, she said. She also couldn't resist scrutinising the chinaware's bottom - to her delight it was from Steelite in Stoke-on-Trent, not far from our marina.
Earlier, M had fallen into conversation with a lady by the name of Sonia, while they were both gazing at an estate agent's window in the town. We were pleasantly surprised when she and her husband Jonathan walked by as we were washing MM. They came on board for a tour of MM.
A very pleasant couple and we were happy to show them round.
Today: 5 miles, 9 locks and 6.7 hours (2 days).
Trip: 227 miles, 140 locks and 160.3 hours.
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