Moored Across the "Dutton Breach".

 Friday 30th June 2023 at Dutton.

This morning, we were not going to be thwarted for breakfast and we were standing outside the gate at 9:30 when the Vistors' Centre opened for the day. The breakfast was excellent with a view overlooking the Anderton Lift.

We have visited the lift a few times before and taken MM down and back up again in 2015. It never fails to impress.

It was originally built in 1875 and it was then a much slimmer structure. The two 250 ton water filled caissons were lifted up and down on two massive interconnected hydraulic rams. When boats had been loaded into the caissons, with one caisson at the top and the other at the bottom, some water would be removed from the bottom caisson. The top caisson was now heaver and so it would start down, pushing the bottom caisson up as it went. Victorian ingenuity!

Sadly, they used the river water as their hydraulic fluid and the contaminated water rotted the iron hydraulic fittings. Finally, around 1900, they decided to dispense with the hydraulics and put electric motors, gears and pulleys on the top with huge counterweights suspending the caissons on steel cables. The massive extra weight of all this meant that the supporting structure had to be doubled and extra pillars fitted on each side.

By the early 1980s the lift was in a very sad state and it became unsafe. There was a move to demolish it but local activists raised enough money to rebuild it completely. It was rebuilt using the original hydraulic principle but this time using hydraulic fluid instead of water. It was reopened in 2002 and is still a marvel of Victorian engineering.

We moved on with MM as far as Dutton, where we knew that there were good moorings with rings. What we hadn't realised was that the concrete side and mooring rings were put there when the canal was rebuilt following a massive breach in September 2012. Coincidentally, we moored up next to a small plaque recording the exact centre of the breach!

Now there is barely any visible evidence of what happened 11 years ago and the eight months of work that went into rebuilding the canal.

We found some old pictures of the breach and superimposed MM about where she is now moored! The people give some scale as to the damage caused by the breach.

That picture made M very nervous but the new concrete wall looks good and strong (we hope!).

Today: 5 miles, 0 locks and 2.3 hours.

Trip: 50 miles, 52 locks and 35.6 hours.

An Elaborate Bird Hide with no VIew.

 Thursday 29th June at the Anderton Lift.

Hooray! A beautiful warm sunny morning so we made another early start in eager anticipation of breakfast in the cafe in the Anderton Lift visitors' centre. We moored up on the 48 hour moorings just before the lift and set off for the visitors' centre.

Horrors! The gate was shut! The notice says "Closed Thursdays" - Boo! How could they??

Back to MM for breakfast instead.

Next to the Anderton Lift is an extensive nature reserve where there used to be a number of huge salt works. In view of the lovely morning, we decided to stay here today and walk round the reserve and its wild flower meadows. A rather grubby notice board showed the main paths that criss cross the reserve.

The entrance gates were imaginatively created to look like large insects, a teasle and a pine cone.

It was a lovely walk but the area was very much overgrown in places. This bench was not only covered in growing plants but it had no view of the river because of the tall reeds.

This notice announced the "Sand Martin Bank", which touted an opportunity to see many rare species of migratory birds from the "hide". A flight of steps led up the side of a bank with the promise of a large lake on the other side.

Another notice displayed all the many birds that eager bird spotters could see from the large and elaborate hide with many eye level slits so you could see without being seen.

Sadly, all you could see through the slits was the tall overgrown bushes, which clearly had not been cut back for years. So disappointing. However, we did see a huge variety of wild flowers on our walk; M counted about forty different species.

Back at MM, we noticed that the nearby Anderton Marina advertised a coffee shop and restaurant so, having been thwarted for breakfast, we decided to try it for afternoon tea.

It turned out to be a proper restaurant, tables laid beautifully for dinner with real tablecloths and it had an excellent menu. It normally closes from 4:00 to 6:00 but, as it was only 3:30, the owner was happy to serve us tea, coffee and excellent tea cakes on the terrace overlooking the marina.

Back at MM, we spent much of the evening chatting to our neighbour, Peter on nb. "Moriarty, moored up behind us.

Today: 1 mile, 0 locks and 1.1 hours.

Trip: 45 miles, 52 locks and 33.3 hours.

Northwich by Bus and the Lion Salt Works.

 Wednesday 28th June 2023 near Anderton.

After another early start, we stopped temporarily at Broken Cross in Rudheath so that we could go and get a "few bits" in Northwich. We left MM with Guy on guard to keep an eye on things and looking hopeful that we may return with a bunch of bananas (sadly for him, we didn't!).

Next to the canal is the Broken Cross Pub, but on the other side of the road is the old Smithy, where the canal horses once were shod.

Just a hundred yards from the canal is a bus stop. The no. 49 bus runs in a circle between Rudheath and Northwich and does a circuitous route through a number of very pleasant 1930s type housing estates. One very good thing about catching buses is that one gets to chat to local folk.  As the bus nears the centre of Northwich, it passes a large new Waitrose. Inevitably, we started our shopping with breakfast in the cafe.

The centre of Northwich is quite strange. There are large open areas surrounded by empty and derelict shops and other areas that have pedestrianised streets that are quite buzzy and busy. It looks as if the segregation is deliberate to cordon off the "dead" areas and concentrate business in specific areas. However, the area down by the River Weaver is definitely the most attractive part of the town and we were glad we'd taken the time to walk down there.

North of Rudheath, the canal landscape is dominated by massive chemical works. The warning notice next to the road is probably indicative of the past level of pollution, which would not be tolerated these days.

This is (Indian) Tata's huge soda ash works that used to be owned by (British) ICI. It is still expanding with massive building work going on. Plenty of those steam vapours in evidence here!

Next to it is the Trouw Nutrition works; it manufactures animal feeds.

In 2015, we visited the Lion Salt Works after it had just reopened following a major renovation. We were very glad to see that it had survived Covid and was flourishing. It was still in operation until 1986, pumping brine from 100ft underground into huge pans that were heated from below with coal. The brine evaporated leaving salt lumps, which were formed into blocks and then dried over a period of weeks. This is a photo from the exhibition showing just one heated store where the blocks were kept before being ground up and exported. Salt from here, in different grades, went all over the world.

The new "Visitors' Centre" included a small cafe, so tea, coffee and cakes were mandatory before we left. Someone had his eye on M's fruit scone ...

We moored up for the night a mile or so further on but the weather deteriorated, so no pictures.

Today: 6 miles, 0 locks and 2.6 hours.

Trip: 44 miles, 52 locks and 32.2 hours.

The Last Lock for 55 miles!

Tuesday 27th June 2023 near Bostock.

With "Heartbreak Hill" behind us, it is hard to think that there is only one more lock before we get to Wigan's Poolstock Locks, 55 miles from here. That last lock is "Big Lock", so named because it is the only wide lock on the Trent & Mersey Canal south of Wigan. Originally, the idea was to make the whole canal wide and they started by making all the bridges between Wigan and Middlewich into wide bridges but they never got further than "Big Lock".

As we approached Big Lock, there was a Swedish family on a hire boat trying to come up through the lock and, as it was their first ever trip and the first lock that they had ever seen, they were looking very confused and a trifle anxious!. M to the rescue! She helped them through and showed them what to do for the future. 

Despite their problems with the lock and the rather cool, overcast weather, they seemed to be having a great time and cheerfully waved us goodbye.

With so many local names ending in "Wych", this is a salt producing area. Salt has been mined and extracted with brine here since Roman times and probably before that. The result is that the land is very unstable and suffers frequently from subsidence. Occasionally, the canal had to be rebuilt when the whole canal consequently sank lower. Sometimes the ground next to the canal would subside and create large lakes or "flashes" like this one. It may look inviting but the far edge of the canal is still there, just under the water, so you stay well away.

This is a mooring site created by the Broken Cross Boating Club from an old clay pit. It has picnic tables and barbecue facilities and is very popular. We were lucky to find a mooring. On the last two occasions that we passed here, there was no space.

Later in the evening, the wind got up and it became quite cold. We have an acrylic sheet that we can put across the door to keep the wind out but let the light in; however, we have to put a towel in front of the door to remind both of us not to try to walk through the invisible sheet - neither one of us has ... yet!

Today: 2 miles, 1 lock and 1.6 hours.

Trip:38 miles, 52 locks and 29.6 hours.

Silage Making and New Batteries.

 Monday 26th June 2023 in Middlewich.

We made another early start. After a couple of miles, the canal is joined by a noisy road that stays close right up until we reach Middlewich. On the east side of the road and canal is a series of huge chemical works. 

The west side could hardly be a greater contrast with large open fields as far as the eye could see.

One large John Deere tractor was "rowing up" the cut grass and, soon after, a Claas Forager arrived with another couple of JD tractors and trailers to start loading the grass, presumably to make silage.

M was fascinated by the balletic coordination between the forager and the trailers, which she stood and watched as R took MM through the neighbouring lock. The Claas was filling up the trailers at great speed and the JDs made a convoy of full trailers which passed us on the road as we continued on up the canal.

Not long after, we arrived in Middlewich and moored up just before King's Lock. R walked ahead to King's Lock Chandlery, just the other side of the lock, to see if they could help provide us with a new set of batteries.

Happily they could! So R took MM through King's Lock and moored up on the service bay. The first job was to disconnect all five old batteries and get them out on to the quayside. Then, after cleaning the battery box, it was a question of fitting the five new batteries and connecting everything back up again. Those things are really heavy!

Soon after, MM was the proud possessor of five smart spanking new batteries and everything could be switched back on again. Let's hope these ones also last for at least 10 years! We were amused later to see that R's cargo pants had developed what appeared to be a row of bullet holes over his thigh; it turned out that a little battery acid had spilt on them - good job he hadn't been wearing shorts!

There is a very pretty mooring by a small park just a few hundred yards further on, we moved there and moored up before walking over to Morrisons for a "few bits".

Today: 5 miles, 8 locks and 4.3 hours (inc power).

Trip: 36 miles, 51 locks and 28.0 hours.

Breakfast by the 18th Green

 Sunday 25th June 2023 at Paddy's Wood near Sandbach.

An early start. We decided that we like these!

Shortly after, we came to Lock 58, which is almost under the M6 Motorway, a passing Eddie Stobart went over the bridge, obligingly showing off its new "Culina" livery.

R, being braver than M, scales up and down the lock ladders. There was a lovely view of the countryside from the top of this one.

 What a find! Next to Lock 64 we saw a welcome sign advertising "Malkins Cafe Bar", which is actually part of Malkin's Golf Club. Because of our early start, we had not had breakfast, an omission that we determined to correct - and what more perfectly timed place than here!

What better than an excellent cooked breakfast overlooking the 18th green? Definitely a place to remember with good food, friendly service and reasonable prices.

At Lock 66, the last of the duplicated locks, we remembered chatting to the new owner of this cottage as we passed last year. He was then just in the process of moving in and was trying to fit a large wardrobe through the small front door! We hope that he managed it in the end. M would have liked to catch up with him but he was working in his back garden and therefore out of earshot. Happily, there was no sign of the wardrobe!

Rain was forecast for the afternoon, so we found a quiet spot and moored up. Soon after there was a huge thunderstorm. The rain and wind were so strong that some water even blew in through the windows.

Sunshine came after the rain - everything looked as if it had been washed. Looking back down the canal, it very much resembled a Constable painting.

The towpath is very overgrown here as this photograph taken from our bedroom window demonstrates!

Today: 3 miles, 10 locks and 3.4 hours.

Trip: 31 miles, 43 locks and 23.7 hours.

The First Half of Heartbreak Hill

 Saturday 24th June 2023 at Hassall Green.

Ahead at Middlewich is King's Lock Chandlery, which R hopes will be able to supply us with a new set of batteries; however, a quick check on the internet confirmed that they do not open Saturday or Sunday, so we will have to mark time until Monday to find out if they can oblige. We should arrive there on Monday anyway, so the timing is right.

This next flight of locks, many of which are duplicated side by side narrow locks, is known by boaters as "Heartbreak Hill" - all 31 of them! We set off quite happily as we have never had any problem with these locks despite their reputation; in fact, we have always enjoyed them, many of them being well spaced out and in pretty settings.

This morning, R started doing the locks single handed while M was being domestic. This meant that, for once, M was in MM going through the locks. This is not a view that she normally sees!

Some of the duplicate locks are both still working, which speeds up the process.

Some of them have been allowed to deteriorate and others have even had one lock of the pair filled in. A sad sight.

R still hard at work as we went down the flight.

R's reward was a glass of wine and supper on the towpath in the warm evening sunshine.

Today: 4 miles, 13 locks and 4.3 hours.

Trip: 28 miles, 33 locks and 20.3 hours.

Back on the T & M and Battery Problems.

 Friday 23rd June 2023 near Kidsgrove.

Mother Hubbard's Cupboard was a bit bare! So we walked in to the shops in Kidsgrove. R had already researched tea shops in the area and found "Jessie's" and what a lovely little gem it turned out to be - so pretty.

 We had coffees and breakfast, very nice.

There are two supermarkets close to the canal in Kidsgrove - Tesco and Lidl. Tesco won, more on the grounds that it is at least more familiar to M than Lidl. After walking back to MM and packing away the shopping, we set off once more, back to the junction with the Trent & Mersey Canal. All the locks ahead were originally duplicated with two narrow locks side by side. Some of the duplicated locks have fallen into disrepair but on many of them, both still operate. At the first lock, we were watched by a group of special needs children with their carers. They were all lovely and very interested in the way the locks worked.

This is the second lock and the aqueduct ahead is where the Macclesfield Canal crosses over the T&M, so just a few minutes ago we were up there!

We made a brief stop for water and to dump our rubbish at Red Bull Services with its old crane and (now) disused warehouse.

 Since we have been back on MM, R noticed that the battery voltage was dropping even though the "State of Charge" was still around 98%. Not a good sign. R moved MM off the service point, moored up and went down into the engine room. 

 

One battery was quite warm so R disconnected all five batteries so that he could test them individually. Three of them showed a healthy 12.8 volts. The warm battery showed just 8 volts and the fifth only 10 volts - so, two "dead" batteries. R reconnected the three "good" batteries, which will keep us going fine - but it will be necessary to change all five batteries as soon as we can. They have lasted 10 years, which is good going for a set of batteries, so we can't complain. 

Today: 2 miles, 3 locks and 2.0 hours.

Trip: 24 miles, 20 locks and 16.0 hours.