Wednesday 11th June, 2014 at Barlaston
What a joy it is to wake up just to the sound of birdsong! It's a constant surprise to us on our travels. While M made her morning "cuppa" a couple of hopefuls watched through the window - perhaps they were after one too!
The day started cloudy but gradually brightened. R was anxious to be beyond Stoke-on Trent by the evening, so that we could get back to Aston Marina in good time tomorrow, so we set off straight after breakfast. We were soon through the stop-lock at Hall Green, and on to the Trent & Mersey Canal by 10am. Farewell lovely "Maccie" until next year; we'll look forward very much to seeing you again then.
There was already a queue of boats at the entrance to the Harecastle Tunnel. It seems there was a film crew making a documantary for ITV about the canals, hosted by John Sargeant. There was no more space to moor up, so R had to hold MM on a centre rope.
So, despite the long queue, we all had to wait for over an hour for the crew to do their filming; then we had to wait for three boats to come the other way before we could finally start off through the tunnel. The water in the tunnel is the colour of milk chocolate due to the local iron ore that leaches into the canal. It does look weird!
M chose to walk over the hill again but not by the route originally taken by the horses. There is no towpath in the tunnel, so boats were "legged" through the tunnel while the horses walked over the hill.
Some years ago, a gypsy encampment set up across the original path and they are reputedly hostile to anyone walking through. M said that, while the prospect of gypsies doesn't bother her, the thought of their many rottweilers most definitely does, and she wasn't going that way!
Last year the tunnel keeper had given her a map of the "safe" route across and, whilst the map was well intentioned, it was hand drawn and not very clear (in fact it was back-to-front in places) - so last year M got lost. This year, she knew where to go, although last year's accidental "wrong" way proved far prettier. On the way, M passed a massive JCB factory. If you look very closely, you may see two tiny dots on the left hand roof - they were two men working on the roof, which just shows the scale of the building.
R took 40 minutes to go through the mile and three-quarters of the tunnel while M took 45 minutes to walk over so, by the time she arrived, MM was already moored up on the other side and R was looking very pleased with himself to have got there first!. Still, R's route was a straight line, whereas M's was circuitous! MM is moored on the right in the distance.
M popped back on board and we set off towards Stoke, now in very familiar territory. We moored up opposite the Royal Doulton "outlet" store to look to see if they had any more "Old Country Roses" seconds, but we were out of luck. Disappointingly, their lovely tea room, where tea was served on fabulous bone china, had been superceded by two "snack" machines; so R consoled himself with a visit to the local Costa instead!
The Etruria Costa is next to the local "multiplex" cinema and the list of films included "Postman Pat - The Movie" but what does "Autism Friendly" mean and "Contains mild comic threat"?. Another blow for the mad 'elf?
At Etruria, we were helped through the locks by a delightful gentleman named Graeme, whose boat was moored on the adjacent Caldon Canal. He was interested in the choices that we had made with MM as he was thinking of having a boat built himself.
After that it was very peaceful and rural. Hard to believe that this was the suburbs of a large industrial city.
One of the locks we went through was unique - the top gates didn't leak at all! Most of the top gates have water pouring through them. However, we noticed that the gates were new in 2013, which probably explains it.
Our evening mooring was opposite Josiah Wedgwood's "new" factory that we had visited last year. R managed to relax a bit with a book before supper after a hard day at the tiller.
Today: 7 locks, 14 miles and 6.9 hours.
Trip: 95 miles, 47 locks and 58.4 hours.
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