To Gargrave and the still closed Lock.

 Wednesday 18th May 2022 in Gargrave.

This is such a wonderfully quiet and remote location. M woke in the night to see a glow of light through the trees opposite. It was the moon, two days off full, bathing everything in its pale, soft light.

The early morning light was magical and the views spectacular.

It was hard to get a photograph that does justice to the views, particularly as the sun was rising on the opposite side of the valley and darkened any photograph taken in that direction.

But the views into the distance were breathtakingly lovely and both of us stood on the towpath watching as the sun rose higher in the sky above the Pennines.

After breakfast, our neighbours on "Sweet Caroline" left, winded just around the corner and started working their way back to their hire base, waving cheerily as they went.

We left soon after as we need to be in Gargrave tonight so that we can go to Settle, to DCC Concepts, to meet our friends Richard and Annette there tomorrow.

As we cruised, we not only kept seeing glimpses of the view through the foliage but, as the canal twists and turns here, we kept seeing what looked like a parallel canal across the valley. Very reminiscent of Napton on the South Oxford Canal!

This lovely range of Yorkshire stone buildings next to the canal is Newton Grange holiday cottages with six accommodation units for from two to six people in the most beautiful setting. It even has one cottage for two that is listed as "dog friendly".

On the way down to Gargrave there are six locks in a flight followed by three locks more spaced out. Luckily there was a strong presence of C&RT volunteers around and we had a lot of help, which not only made things easier but also much faster.

The lock in the centre of Gargrave, which was closed last year due to bulges in the side wall, was due to open three weeks ago after repairs but unfortunately is still not ready. As a result, we have had to moor up just before the previous lock, which is also closed. This was the lock when it was originally closed. As you can see, it is a massive project.

Since then, the C&RT has rebuilt the faulty wall, but as it is a listed structure, they have had Natural England breathing down their necks, which has slowed everything up. They also had a problem when a large storm last winter washed all their piles of building materials into the canal, which slowed them even more.

Today, they were filling the lock to test it, so they are making progress and have assured everyone that the lock will open by next Wednesday, a week today. There were certainly a dozen people toiling away on it when we visited.

Having checked out the lock, we walked into Gargrave and treated ourselves to a Magnum each in the sunshine.

Further on, in the centre of town, we discovered the Dalesman Tea Rooms, which is highly rated in the guide books. We decided to drop in for tea and coffee.

It turns out to be a real gem with lovely tea, coffee and food; we had freshly baked scones, warm from the oven. It is also a true old fashioned emporium that also sells every sweet imaginable all in traditional glass jars, rows and rows of them. In the middle is a real "Arkwright" till that sounds just like the one from "Open All Hours"!

Tomorrow, we are off to Settle on the train to DCC Concepts to meet our friends Richard and Annette for the day. Then on Friday, they will pick up their hire boat from Skipton. The plan was for us to cruise the two boats together but, as the boats are on either side of the closed lock, we will use buses and trains to spend each day with them as they cruise, returning each night to MM at her moorings. Hopefully, when (and if) the lock reopens, we may be able to spend the last couple of days of their hire week with the boats together. Watch this space!

Today: 2 miles, 9 locks and 2.2 hours.

Trip: 147 miles, 100 locks and 71.3 hours.