Monday 9th September, 2013 at Wedgwood.
When we first arrived in Stoke-on-Trent, we were disappointed to see a lot of industrial wasteland and very little signs of its pottery heritage. But, it is there if you look for it! We visited the Potteries Museum, which has an incredible collection of china made in the town. We also went to Middleport Pottery which still mass produces pottery in the Victorian way. We visited Gladstone Pottery, which no longer mass produces but does preserve all its production facilities in a museum context; and we went to the modern outlet centre for Wedgwood, Doulton, Waterford, etc.
Today, we are at the Wedgwood factory. Unlike many of the pottery companies, Wedgwood china and pottery is still made in Stoke-on-Trent in a purpose built factory and, overnight, we had moored outside it (it is the building in the background).
Wedgwood's original factory was at Etruria, where we were a few days ago with Erika, Dan and Lucas, right in the middle of Stoke. Sadly, the factory was demolished long ago.
The foundation stone for the new factory was laid in a big ceremony that took place here 75 years ago - tomorrow. We did ask about it at Reception, but rather surprisingly, no one seems to have noticed the significance of the date!
When the factory opened, Wedgwood built a station so that its skilled workers could travel from Stoke on the train. The station is now rarely used as Wedgwood also built local housing for its workers.
We went on a fascinating factory tour all around the facility. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures, but we did see one of the two ladies who do the gold application ("embellishing") on the Wedgwood china. Between them they do every piece of Wedgwood that has gold on it! There is also one person only who puts the white "bas-relief" figures on the traditional ware for which Wedgwood is renowned; his name is Kevin. M. asked if they are training a replacement for when he retires; apparently there is a young man doing a seven-year apprenticeship in readiness!
Unfortunately, all the good clay in Staffordshire is exhausted and the clay now comes from Cornwall. The museum in the factory was staggering! Pieces from every period, including two of the first six pots ever made at Etruria, thrown by Josiah Wedgwood himself with his business partner providing the manpower to drive the wheel.
In the courtyard is a statue of Josiah Wedgwood; it's a copy of the one opposite the railway station in Stoke. He appears to be looking in horror at what a pigeon has done on his lovely pot!
No visit would be complete without a visit to their beautiful tea room, where we had a proper English afternoon tea - served on Wedgwood china, of course!
As is our wont, we were some of the first visitors to arrive and the last to leave, so we decided to stay where we were for the night, watching the setting sun glinting on the factory roof.
On reflection then, the Potteries were a disappointment and a delight,
all at the same time. So little left of its proud heritage but what
there was, was absolutely superb.
Today: Just 3.0 hours to charge the batteries.
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